The Dudo509 Carwash Guide

As many of you already know, washing my car is a big thing with me. It started with my Maxima days in college, then continued and maybe escalated a little when I got my current car. Over the years, I have spent quite a few hours reading up and researching the subject, then many more hours doing the washing, not to mention a healthy chunk of change on the car wash materials. I've washed my car in the middle of winter, driven to the "self-wash" stations or to friends' houses when I lived in an apartment to use their hose, and once I even got rained on in the middle of washing my car.

I don't know if all of that makes me an "expert", but at least a couple of my friends have come to me in the past few years for advice on where to start with washing their car. And I imagine I might get the same question again in the future, so I decided to write a summary for those who might be interested in reading.

* These are (mostly) my opinions only! I'm just passing along what I have learned from other people and from my experience, so take it for what it's worth. Hopefully it will at least be a helpful "beginners reference" for those of you who have no idea where to start.

I. The Clear-Coat

When you wash your car, the main focus is usually on cleaning and shining the paint job. Most everyone's car has a "clear coat", which gives it that natural shiny look. In between washes, dirt, salt, bird crap, etc. builds up over the clear coat, which reduce the shine. Some of those can actually eat away at your clear coat if you leave it on too long.

Anyways, the main point of washing your car is to get rid of all the stuff that covers up the clear coat's natural shine, and hopefully even enhance that shine.

I break down the carwashing into two systems:

A. The "3-step" Treatment

This is the more basic, and more common type. The three steps are:

1. Wash - Use carwash soap and sponge to clean off the layers of dirt, salt, bugs, etc.

2. Polish - Generally comes in bottles of liquid or lotion-like substance. You rub it on your car after washing it and it is supposed to bring out the shine of your clear-coat. Sometimes can help remove light "swirl marks" as well. Often times people skip this step because it is a lot of work and they don't see much difference in polishing vs. not polishing.

3. Wax - Most popular type of wax is carnauba wax (that's a type, not a brand). Gives your car that finished, glossy look, and forms somewhat of a protective layer.

Usually if you just go to the auto section at Walmart or Target, you can find many product lines that fit into the "3-step" system. I haven't tried all of the brands, but overall I would say that Meguiar's has pretty good quality in their products across the board. They cost a little more, of course, but if you want to feel secure in what you're using on your car, Meguiar's is a pretty good bet. It should be pretty safe to mix and match different brands for different steps (i.e. Generic Carwash Soap with Meguiar's Polish with Turtle Wax), so you have the flexibility to experiment and see what works best for you.

Note: In general it is not recommended to use anything other than designated "carwash soap" for washing your car, at least in the 3 step system. Some people try to substitute dishwashing fluid, liquid hand soap, or even laundry detergent. I can't say for sure whether those things can harm your car or not, but the fact is that carwash soap is cheap enough such that there's no good reason for you to be using anything else. Don't be lazy!

B. The Zaino system

Zaino is actually a company that makes car-washing products, but since it doesn't go with the typical "3-step" system, I think it deserves its own category.

You can read up a lot about Zaino at http://www.zainostore.com, but some of their instructions are a little confusing, so I'll try to summarize the main steps.

1. Wash with Dawn - Notice in the 3-step system it was not recommended to use dishwashing liquid. But Zaino specifically asks you to use Original Dawn, the first time you wash your car in preparation for the Zaino system. It's probably not a good idea to wash your car with Dawn regularly, but only the first time to strip away everything on your car other than the clearcoat.

2. Wash with Z7 - Z7 is the Zaino carwash soap, a blue liquidy substance. It's probably similar to the generic carwash soaps you use in the 3-step system, but I'd recommend sticking to Z7 if you're doing the Zaino system. The generic soaps will probably either be too weak or too strong to be used effectively with the rest of the Zaino products, while Z7 should obviously be formulated to work perfectly.

3. Polish with Z2/Z5 + ZFX - The key product to the Zaino system is the polish. Z2 is the basic polish, while Z5 supposedly fills some swirl marks as it polishes. The two are basically interchangeable in this system though. The unique thing about Zaino polish is that the layers of polish are supposed to build on each other. So in theory, each time you add a layer of polish, it should make your finish look deeper and shinier. Each coat is also an added layer of protection as well.

4. Finish with Z6 spray - There's no "wax" step in the Zaino system. Z6 is probably the closest thing. It is a spray (with grape-flavored smell) that you apply at the end of the wash, which should provide that finishing gloss as well as a protective layer to your clean car.

There are a few drawbacks to the Zaino system. For starters, it is more expensive (a complete kit will cost you about $100 or so and last you maybe a year or two), and you can only order direct - you can't find Zaino in stores.

Also, when you first start out using Zaino, it is a lot of work to do all 4 steps, and very time consuming to apply the multiple layers of polish. However, you only do Step 1 the first time. And once you have polished your car enough times to your liking, you can also start skipping Step 3 also. In my experience, I put on about 4-5 layers of polish before I started to skip that step, and now I occasionally add a layer only if I have the time and energy. If you only do steps 2 and 4, it's actually easier and quicker than the 3 step system.

There are a lot of car enthusiasts who swear by Zaino when it comes to washing and polishing their car. I have done both the 3-step and the Zaino system in my experience, but I don't know if I would say that there's a dramatic difference between the two, and if Zaino is "worth" the extra money and effort. Both systems will make your car look nice and shiny. However, I do think that wax can sometimes look a little cloudy or oily, while the Zaino polish usually leaves a very clear finish, like glass. The Zaino website calls its product "optically perfect", for what it's worth.

I personally have been using Zaino for a few years now, and I don't plan on going back to the traditional 3-step system. But that's not to say that the 3-step is bad or I recommend against it. It all depends on what you decide for yourself.

II. Other Parts of the Car

The clear coat only applies to the metal body of your car (not including your wheels, or parts of the trim such as door handles). You typically don't polish and wax the rest of your car in the same way, so this section covers the care of those miscellaneous parts.

A. Windows

Usually I don't do anything to the windows, they should already be clean from when you washed your clear coat. On the interior you can use Windex, obviously, but I'll get to that later. You don't want to wax or polish your windows, it doesn't do much other than maybe cloud up your vision.

Some people like to apply Rain-X to the front windshield. I personally am not a big fan of Rain-X, because I don't think it works well enough to let me avoid using windshield wipers entirely, but it does enough to interfere with the wipers when I do use them. Only you can decide for yourself if you like Rain-X, so try it at least once if you're curious.

B. Vinyl Trim

I call it vinyl, but it could be some other sort of plastic for all I know. What I'm referring to is the part of your car that isn't metal, but is colored. This usually includes the bumpers, the area surrounding door handles, and I'd also group the headlight/tailight/sidemarker covers here too. Like the windows, you don't wax or polish these sections either, just wash them. It won't hurt if you do, it just doesn't do anything. I think Armorall sells those bottles of Vinyl protectant, but that might be more for the interior surfaces. The nice thing about the vinyl sections is that if you scratch them, you don't have to worry about it rusting. The drawback is that you can't keep them as shiny as the clear coat.

C. Tires (Rubber)

I have tried 2 different products to shine my tires:

1. Spray - Kind of like Windex for your tires, you just spray it on and it leaves the rubber looking wet and shiny. It doesn't last very long (less than a week probably), but if you really like the wet shiny look, this is probably your best bet.

2. Gel (specifically Meguiars brand, grape flavored) - You kind of work this gel into the rubber, like lotion. The resulting look is not as much of a wet and shiny appearance like the spray, but slightly more subdued. Some people (like myself) prefer this look, and the added advantage to the gel is that it lasts longer, up to maybe a month per application.

There are other options out there, if you just browse through the aisles at the store or online, but I haven't tried them. Zaino has a product that sounds similar to the Meguiars gel, which I might try next. If any of you get a chance to try other options, let me know what you think of them and I will add them to this writeup. (That goes for any part of this guide, too.)

D. Rims

This section won't be very helpful because I don't really do much to my rims, and how you treat your rims will vary from car to car. Some cars have hubcaps, in which case you probably just treat it the same as the vinyl sections. Some cars, like mine, put out a lot of brake dust, which makes cleaning them a lot more trouble.

There are a variety of cleaners and spray solutions that are supposed to help you clean your rims, but not all of them are safe for every type of rim. And I'm not sure they really do much to begin with. I tried a spray thing once that looked cool cause it bubbled like an acid on contact, but I don't think it make my rims any cleaner or shinier in the process. If you do decide to try something, make sure you read the labels carefully so you don't damage your rims!

III. Car Wash Accessories

A. Washing your car

Mostly obvious stuff, like a hose, nozzle, bucket, and sponge.

1. 2 Bucket Technique - I have been told that the ideal setup is where you have 2 buckets instead of one. You use one bucket for the clean soapy water, and the other to wring out the dirty sponge. I don't have 2 buckets, so I'm still a single bucket chump. But if you do have 2 buckets, you might as well use them.

2. Bug-Remover Sponge - In addition to my big sponge, I sometimes use a smaller "bug remover" sponge that is useful for spots that have harder to remove stuff such as bird poop or, you guessed it, dead bugs. You should be able to find these sponges at most stores in the same section you find the rest of the car-wash stuff. Note: NEVER use a dishwashing sponge on your car, especially the abrasive green side! I shouldn't have to say this but those surfaces can really wreck your clear coat permanently. I heard a story once about some guy's wife who wanted to surprise her husband by washing his car, except she used a dishwashing sponge. It makes me cringe just to think about that.

3. Clay Bar - For the really hard stuff to clean, such as tree sap, you might need to resort to a clay bar. WalMart or Target might carry clay bars, but these might be harder to find. Zaino sells clay bars so you order a kit from them, might as well get a clay bar. When you use the clay bar, the important thing is to make sure the surface is wet, and never reuse the clay if you drop it on the ground. It will have picked up pebbles or dirt that will scratch up your car, it's just not worth the risk.

B. Drying your car

Whether you use the 3-step or Zaino system, you will need to dry your car before you apply any polish or wax. Drying sounds like a simple step, but don't be fooled. Depending on the weather and conditions, it can take a significant amount of energy to dry your car right. In the process, you also have to worry about leaving water spots or worse yet, scratching your paint. It's probably my least favorite part of washing my car, and I have yet to find a drying system that I really like. The options I have tried are:

1. Chamois - These are the thin cloths that are supposedly capable of soaking up 500% of its volume or whatever. They do soak up a lot of water, but you'll find yourself having to wring it out every 10 seconds anyways. You also run a greater risk of picking up dirt and scratching your car because of the way the chamois is used. If you are careful about that, and feel like a forearm workout, then go ahead and use the chamois.

2. Wiper blade - Basically just a flat piece of plastic like your windshield wipers or the window cleaner things at gas stations. You use it to "push" off water from the surface of your car instead of soaking it off. Sounds great, in theory. In reality, the blade only helps on the flat surfaces and even then, you'll have to finish off with a chamois or towel anyways. It's not completely useless, I have one and it probably saves some work, but it's not all that great either.

3. Towel - If you read the Zaino FAQ's there is some pretty extensive discussion on towels. They recommend that you avoid the cheap, generic brand towels, and spend a little more on the higher quality brands, plusher towels. Also should be 100% cotton, made in the USA, and white. This is probably going a little overboard, but it kind of makes sense. If you're going to spend all the time and money on car washing products, you don't want to mess it all up by using cheap towels.

Anyways, I couldn't find the exact brands they mentioned, but I did get my car wash towels at the department store instead of WalMart, and made sure they were white, 100% cotton, made in the USA just in case. In fact I like to tell people that I use nicer towels on my car than I use on my own body, and this is completely true.

As far as drying your car goes, these nicer towels work pretty well. Not perfect, but better than the chamois and wiper blade. It definitely helps a lot if you have more than one.

C. Polishing/Waxing

Usually if you buy wax from the store, or Zaino polish, they will come with some sort of applicator, so I can't think of any reason not to use what they give you. To wipe off the wax or polish, I think the best bet is those nicer towels I talked about in the Drying section above.

D. Tire applicator

These are the funky shaped curved sponges used to put on the gel, if you use it. I think they are worth getting, not only does it make the application easier, but you don't have to waste a towel. The tires are especially dirty, so you should try to avoid using the same towels on your tires as you do on the rest of your car.

E. California Car Duster

Sometimes after you wash your car, even if you just leave it in your garage, a layer of dust forms that takes away from that freshly washed/polished shine. You could try going over the whole car with a towel and wiping off the dust, but that might not work that well. You definitely don't want to have to wash your car every 3 days either, just to maintain that shine.

The California Car Duster is supposed to save you that trouble. It's kind of like a Swiffer, for your car. The brush has static properties that are supposed to attract dust, so in less than a minute with this thing, you can get rid of that annoying dust layer.

It's only useful for maybe a few days after a wash, though, and you don't want to use it after your car's been rained on, or if you've already got other stains on your paint. I think you can get the brush at Walmart, but if not, you can always look online.

IV. Interior Care

If you are really anal, you might want to take your car to a detailing place where they have all the tools and stuff to get every crack and corner truly clean. But if you just want to keep it looking reasonable, you don't have to spend all that money.

A. Vacuum - I have a little dustbuster-type vacuum cleaner that runs off of the cigarette lighter. It works pretty well, but sometimes I like to just go to the gas stations or the "self-wash" stations and use the more powerful vacuums. It's worth the 50 cents, in my opinion.

B. California Dash Duster - A small version of the exterior brush I mentioned above. Pretty good at picking up dust from the dash and panels around the car.

C. Windex - There's a lot of special cleaners and "protectants", which come in both spray bottles and in the form of wipes. But for me, I think a bottle of Windex and a few paper towels are good enough to do the job. Not just for windows, but for all the plastic/vinyl surfaces too. Actually, when I got my windows tinted, the guy who did it recommended Pledge for cleaning the tinted surfaces. I haven't tried that, but I thought I would mention it anyways.

D. Leather - If you have leather seats/surfaces, Windex probably isn't a good idea. Here you may want to get one of those special protectants or wipes. I like the Meguiars Gold Class Leather Cleaner/Conditioner, that you put on like lotion. I don't use it that often by the way, maybe once or twice a year should be plenty.

E. Compressed Air - Some of you probably have the bottles of compressed air to clean out your keyboards and electronics. If you do, you might as well use it on the harder to reach areas of your car interior.

Miscellaneous

A. When you soap your car, dry it, and put on polish/wax, the recommended order is to start at the top and work to the bottom. When you remove the polish/wax, go from bottom to top. Not a critical thing, but if you follow those guidelines it will probably make sense why.

B. Do NOT spray, gel, wax, or polish your tire treads! It might seem obvious to most people why not to do so, but I have heard stories of some pretty ugly crashes resulting from people doing just that.

C. Avoid going through machine washes as much as you can. I won't say never, because sometimes your car desperately needs a wash, and conditions may be nowhere near practical to do it yourself. I'll admit that once or twice each winter I will grudgingly send my car through the machine wash.

Machine washes will never get your car as thoroughly clean as hand washing. But there are two more critical reasons to avoid them as much as you can:

1. This doesn't apply to the "touch-free" washes, but for any wash that uses the spinning brushes or cloths, you don't know what kinds of debris could have built up in those surfaces from previous washes. All it takes is one tiny fragment of a rock stuck in the cloth to scratch up your paint. I'm not saying it will or won't happen, but the risk is certainly there.

2. Again, this doesn't apply to all washes, but most of them "finish" the wash with some layer(s) of protectant wax and/or polish. If your car wasn't completely clean when it got through the rinse stage, I'm thinking that some dirty residue is going to be trapped under that finishing layer. It might be no big deal, or it could be a hassle to wash off that wax and get your car "truly" clean again after that machine wash. The whole point of the Dawn dishwashing liquid step in the Zaino system was to remove all those excess layers of waxes and oils. Also, if you think about it, how much sense does it make to have a layer of wax or polish sprayed on your entire car, windows and all? And since the machine has to be able to handle different sizes of vehicles, I doubt that layer goes on very evenly.

If you must use a machine wash, my recommendation is to get the most basic type, with just the soap wash, rinse, and dry. Maybe the undercarriage wash, if you want, but I don't think it's necessary.

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Hope that was helpful for someone out there. As I mentioned, if anyone has anything to add let me know and I will edit this post. Happy washing!